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2008 Book Reviews

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Down the Nile: Alone in a Fisherman's Skiff by Rosemary Mahoney

Rating:

***

 

(Recommended)

 

 

 

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Travels

 

An armchair traveler will receive abundant pleasure when reading Rosemary Mahoney’s book, Down the Nile: Alone in a Fisherman's Skiff. The headline for this adventure wouldn’t make the local newspaper: foreign woman rows a section of the Nile for a few days. Perhaps as a testament to the fact that good writers can write decent work about just about anything, Down the Nile is a well written story of the author’s adventure in trying to do something she loves in an unfamiliar place. Here’s an excerpt, from the beginning of the chapter titled, “Luxor,” pp. 180-181:

 

We set off for Luxor, half an hour's ride, and immediately it became obvious that something was seriously wrong with the taxi. Every five minutes or so, the car
would suddenly break into a feverish trembling and bucking, like a draft horse expiring, and the driver, leaning forward in his seat as if to coax it forward, would begin muttering anxiously to himself and gesticulating with his hand over the
steering wheel, as though trying to reason with the demented engine. Each time he leaned forward, the sun illuminated a bald spot at the back of his head. A trip to Luxor at the price of forty pounds was a boon to him. He didn't want to lose us. He
drove too fast. The car trembled and shuddered. The driver muttered and sighed, ground his teeth, frenetically shifted the gears up and down in a way that seemed wholly experimental. There were no seat belts in this car.

I looked out the window. In this middle of nowhere, a group of women draped from crown to toe in flowing black robes walked barefoot along the edge of the road, with baskets bal­anced on their heads. They looked otherworldly, almost de­monic in the blinding light, their shadows slithering across the desiccated ground. Chickens and children straggled in and out of the open doors of mud-and-straw houses. Dry irrigation ditches with cracked mud bottoms sprouted weedy grass. Flat fields of alfalfa rolled endlessly by. A van overcrowded with turbaned men sped past us at ninety miles per hour, honking and teetering wildly.

Egyptians drove in a fashion that could only be described as chaotic. They seemed compelled to position their car in front of the one ahead of them at any cost. At night they drove with their headlights off until an oncoming car approached, at which time they helpfully blinded the opposing driver with a sudden flash of the high beams. And Egyptian highways were mine­fields of disaster. There were always skinny figures leaping across them at just the wrong moment, entire families sit­ting down to picnics in the middle of them, cars speeding along them in the wrong direction, men stopping their cars to pee in the fast lane, sudden pointless barriers stretched across the road, or wayward oil barrels, or boulders, or a huge herd of hobbled goats. Every ten miles or so the hideously crushed hull of a truck or car would appear at the edge of the road, the rust­ing, twisted remains of past accidents, and yet these gruesome and shockingly numerous reminders never seemed to chasten Egyptian drivers. They raced and careered and honked their way along with the heedless abandon of people who believe ei­ther that they are invincible or that life has no value whatever.

The problem with our taxi gradually grew worse. We were now traveling a mere ten miles per hour while the car shud­dered and pitched and fumed. Smoke billowed out of the ex­haust pipe. The driver seemed to be praying over the steering wheel.

 

Unlike the overwrought travel writing that encourages visitors about all that they “must” do when in such and such a place, Down the Nile is a relaxing narrative about going somewhere unfamiliar and doing what you love.

 

Steve Hopkins, February 21, 2008

 

 

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*    2008 Hopkins and Company, LLC

 

The recommendation rating for this book appeared

 in the March 2008 issue of Executive Times

 

URL for this review: http://www.hopkinsandcompany.com/Books/Down the Nile.htm

 

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